Taichung Park and the Historic Mid-Lake Pavilion

Taichung Park is a 10-acre green space located in the heart of downtown Taichung, central Taiwan. As the city's oldest park, it has a history stretching back more than a century to the period of Japanese colonial rule.

The large urban park serves as an important recreational space for Taichung residents. Along with the usual facilities found in Taiwanese parks, including playground equipment and basketball courts, it also preserves several historically significant sites. A large lake at the center of the park provides opportunities for kayaking and canoeing, creating an unusual combination of recreation and history.

Originally called Nakanoshima Koen, the park was established in 1908. The Taichung City Government later designated it as a historical site because of the important monuments located within its grounds, some of which date as far back as the Qing Dynasty.

Rather than covering every historic structure found throughout the park, I plan to discuss different aspects of Taichung Park in more than one article, including both the features I appreciate and those I find disappointing.

This first article will concentrate on one of the park's most attractive landmarks, the Mid-Lake Pavilion. A second article will take a much more critical approach, discussing what I see as the intentional loss of Taiwan's historical heritage as a result of the island's complicated political circumstances and its experience with colonial rule.

The Mid-Lake Pavilion

For this first look at Taichung Park, I want to focus on the positive aspects, particularly the beautiful Mid-Lake Pavilion. More than a century after its construction, the pavilion has become one of the recognizable symbols of Taichung, remaining in place as the city around it continues to grow and change.

Construction of both the pavilion and the artificial lake surrounding it was completed on October 24, 1908. The project was timed to coincide with celebrations for the completion of the railway connecting Kaohsiung with Taipei and Keelung in northern Taiwan.

The railway was considered one of the major development projects undertaken by the Japanese colonial administration. The ceremony marking its completion was intended to be a significant event, and Prince Kanin Kotohito traveled from Japan to attend. Extending along nearly the entire western side of Taiwan, the railway was viewed as a symbol of a new period of peace and stability and was expected to contribute to modernization and greater economic security for the island's population.

A Pavilion for a Royal Visitor

Because the railway inauguration ceremony was scheduled to take place close to Taichung Train Station, the pavilion was intended to provide the visiting prince with a comfortable place away from the sun. It offered an opportunity to rest and enjoy Taiwanese tea while attending the celebrations.

There are also references suggesting that Crown Prince Hirohito visited Taichung and the pavilion in 1923. However, I have not been able to independently confirm whether that visit actually took place.

Prince Kotohito was a strong supporter of State Shinto, and during his journeys around Taiwan, he considered it important for Shinto shrines to be established in the locations he visited. During his stay in Taichung, he requested that a shrine be constructed nearby.

Several years later, the Taichung Shinto Shrine was established within the park, only a short distance from the pavilion. I will discuss the history of that shrine in greater detail in my next article about Taichung Park.

Japanese and Western Architectural Influences

Without knowing much about the pavilion's background, it would probably be difficult to tell that the structure was originally created with a Japanese prince in mind. Its architecture combines elements associated with a traditional Japanese tea house with influences from Western architectural design.

The double-sided pavilion stands over the artificial lake on concrete supports. Its two sections are positioned so that they face away from one another at approximately 45-degree angles.

The structural framework was constructed from cast iron, while Taiwanese cypress was used for the interior and portions of the exterior. The roof is arguably the feature that gives the pavilion its strongest Japanese character, although it is noticeably different from the traditional Japanese roof forms that remain common in both Taiwan and Japan.

Each of the pavilion's four-sided sections is topped by a roof featuring a pronounced arched shape, giving the building a distinctive appearance from the water and surrounding paths.

A Photogenic Taichung Landmark

For photographers, the Mid-Lake Pavilion is one of the classic images associated with Taichung. Its position over the water makes it an appealing subject in daylight, while nighttime photography offers an entirely different atmosphere.

The pavilion is currently closed to visitors because restoration work is being carried out on its interior. Once the renovation is finished, it is expected to reopen to the public at some point in the future.

Visiting Taichung Park

If you find yourself in Taichung, visiting the beautiful Taichung Park is well worth considering. The park is conveniently located and can be reached with a short walk from Taichung Train Station.

The Mid-Lake Pavilion is particularly worth seeing. This more-than-century-old structure is one of the surviving landmarks from the Japanese colonial period and has been remarkably well preserved. If you have enough time while exploring the city, I highly recommend making a stop at the park.

I will return to Taichung Park in another article with a less favorable assessment, looking at some of the issues and historical concerns surrounding the site. If you are interested in hearing the more critical side of the story, stay tuned for the next installment.